2002 Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben

The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben is sappy, juicy and spicy, but somehow not entirely complete and seeming to need time. Meanwhile, for the U.S. program, Brundlmayer has re-released a 2002 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben which is minty and cressy in the nose, juicy and full of fruit and mineral extract in the mouth, and capable in the best 2002 fashion of dancing on your palate. Finishing on sweet pea, herbs, and pepper, this wine of impressive freshness and purity will be fascinating to pair with food now and to cellar for at least a half dozen more years. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86). Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300