2018 Champagne Christophe Baron Champagne Le Dessus du Bois Marie Crouttes-sur-Marne
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Christophe Baron's 2018 Brut Nature Le Dessus du Bois Marie, disgorged in April 2022 and—as always—released without dosage, leaps from the glass with an exuberant bouquet of pear, raspberry and peach with a hint of toffee. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and textural, exhibiting succulent yet vibrant acidity, a vinous character and a long, enveloping finish. This 2018 rendition presents a more muscular and expansive profile than the 2020 and 2019 vintages, seemingly capturing all the light and warmth the season had to offer and reflecting a greater degree of maturity. As ever, it originates from a south-facing parcel where merely 30 centimeters of topsoil veil the underlying limestone.
Critic scores
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Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Golden straw-colored with a hint of copper, the 2018 Champagne Le Dessus Du Bois Marie Brut Nature is elegant, with aromas that are a bit more reserved at this stage, including notes of beeswax, tangerine, cherry blossom, and brioche. This continues to the palate with a graceful and supple texture, a refined, rounded mousse, and a juicy, clean finish. A beautiful wine, it’s drinking well now and will certainly hold up nicely over the coming 10-15 years.
The 2018 Brut Nature Le Dessus du Bois Marie (Magnum) is another intriguing Champagne from Christophe Baron. Rich and vinous, with slightly burly contours, the 2018 has plenty of depth. There is a bit of roughness, especially compared to the other wines in the range. It will be interesting to see if some of the youthful austerity softens over time. I suggest opening this well in advance. This wine and the magnum format can definitely handle it.