2007 Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra

The 2007 Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra – not yet bottled when I last tasted it – had an opportunity this year to harness the sun’s rays the way that the Y-shaped canopy for which it is named are designed to, and yet to remain moderate (13%) in alcohol which it has seldom been in recent years. An effusive nose of buddleia, rose petal, and brown spices resembles a hypothetical blend with Gewurztraminer, and this Riesling’s rich, subtly oily palate presence accentuates that impression. Kiwi, apricot, and lime convey a succulent juiciness, and there is an alluring, honeyed richness to the finish here, although the clarity and stony expression of the “regular” Heiligenstein bottling have fled. Willi Brundlmayer harvested through the third week of November, undeterred by frost, harvesting his profound but generally high alcohol Lamm and Kaferberg Gruner Veltliner at a moderate 13.5% alcohol. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300