2013 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Setzberg Smaragd
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Tasting notes
Juicy, sharply tangy pineapple and lime are bitterly tinged with huckleberry and juniper berry on the firm palate, leading to a sappy and penetratingly persistent, not to mention mouth-shaking, finish. A light de-acidification has done nothing to dull the teeth of this blazingly bright creature. After a few years, when one can take off the sunglasses, I would expect significant additional complexity to be revealed.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2013 Riesling Smaragd Setzberg displays clear, fresh, ripe and concentrated Riesling flavors on the nose, including apricots and apricot skins, and is a kind of signature wine for the Wachau. Elegant, fresh and pure on the well-balanced palate, this Riesling is by far not as rich and baroque as the Veltiners. It's rather gothic: lean, straight, and well-structured with grip. The pure, piquant and salty finish is very stimulating.