2012 F.X. Pichler Riesling Loibner Steinertal Smaragd

Pichlers’2012 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal suggests chili as well as Szechuan pepper bite and pungency, allied to rhubarb-like tartness and mouthwatering savor, all enrobed in lusciously ripe, white peach and apple on a plush palate. “This site has an effect a lot like Schutt,” explains Lucas Pichler, “because the eroded stone that form its basis followed the creases and crevices in the hillside that are precisely what conduct cool air down from the woods above the vineyards.” Wafting hints of chamomile and suffusion of crushed stone add to the interest and allure of this refined, long-finishing Riesling that should prove worth following through at least 2022. “In recent years,” notes Lucas Pichler, “we’ve been harvesting a little earlier in order to depress the alcohol levels a bit,” which in 2012 meant among other things beginning with Gruner Veltliner Federspiel already in the third week of September. After what I had tasted thus far of the vintage, I was amazed to find the Rieslings here in aggregate even finer than the Gruner Veltliners, a pattern that was to be dramatically accentuated at nearby Alzinger. (I did not get chance on my most recent visit to catch-up with Pichlers’ Sauvignon Blanc from this vintage.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0700

Rich, creamy citrus but with a strong mineral streak making it much more sour/fresh on the palate. Intense and mouthfilling – noticeable for a 2012 – and still so fresh. Great balance and incipient complexity with limey line of freshness to a long finish. (JH)