2007 F.X. Pichler Riesling Loibner Steinertal Smaragd

Pichler’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal smells of ripe pit fruits with pungent Szechuan pepper and crushed stone typical for the site. Lush, concentrated, infectiously juicy and full of energy on the palate, this mingles fig and ripe peach playing against grapefruit and peppery, mineral notes, and finishes with improbable intensity and electric length. It seems capable of a decade or more of fascinating evolution in bottle. Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Such tingle and excitement. The sort of smell that just seems to pervade the entire nervous system! Just great!! Zingy green fruits on molten honey with real layers of undertow and no excess sweetness. Crisp dry finish, so complete. How wonderful that you can buy this by the single bottle! (JR)