2006 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Echézeaux Grand Cru

A sweet, spicy profusion of cinnamon, ginger, cocoa powder, lily perfume, maraschino, and kirsch soars from the glass of Rouget 2006 Echezeaux, which comes to the palate with unexpected depth and richness of roasted meats, chalk, and saline savor, though to be sure, the bright red fruits and spices never flag. This is positively vibratory as well as riveting in its dynamic, oscillating finishing complexity. I'd give it 3-4 years head start and then plan to follow it for another decade. Emmanuel Rouget was very pleased with the "unusually long evolution" of his youthful 2006s – which I last tasted on the eve of bottling – rendered possible not just by the frigid temperature of his relatively shallow cellars, he explained, but also by what for this vintage are impressively low pHs. Even after slight chaptalization, he says the present collection scarcely exceeds 13% alcohol. These factors no doubt help account for the balance of ripe flavors and textural polish with cut and vivacity that the 2006s here display, rendering them – as Rouget puts it – "more precise, fresh, and elegant" than his 2005s, in which respect they remind him of his 1996s. "If you compare them directly today, my 2005s almost taste heavy by comparison with these 2006s," he notes. Moreover, my own impression is that the current crop of wines has proven more resistant to the same levels of new oak – 50-100% – as were used on his 2005s (whereas the 2004s received nada). "I think that impression is on account of the acidity," of the 2006s, opines Rouget, adding "for me the acidity of Pinot is more important than the alcohol. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

So dark and purple it looks like a bordeaux! Intense. Not very burgundian. Thick and sweet and overdone. Green finish. Austere. (JR)

Saturated deep red. Wild red cherry and an exotic whiff of coconut on the nose; lower-toned than the premier crus from Vosne-Romanee. Rich, suave, sweet and full, with very good breadth to the flavors of redcurrant, smoke and nutty oak. Finishes with sweet tannins and noteworthy length. This and the Cros Parantoux get 100% new oak, with 75% used for the Beaumonts and 50% for the village cuvees