1998 Domaine Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire

Still a pup in terms of development, the otherworldly 1998 Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire is still borderline primary and unevolved on the nose, yielding staggering levels of licorice-laced blackberry fruit that’s supported by new leather, flowers, spice, and garrigue notes that just come leaping from the glass. It slowly unwinds over the evening, showing fantastic underlying complexity that struggles to compete with the crazy fruit in the wine. Full bodied and brilliant on the palate as well, carrying a seamless, decadent texture, amazing focus and precision, and a blockbuster finish, this is certainly on par with the ’90, and needs another 3-5 years to show at its best. Absolutely stunning.

Bright saturated ruby-red. Like a fruit essence on the nose: crushed cherry and currant complicated by violet and rose petal perfume. Boasts an almost uncanny old-viney creaminess of texture, but the superripe, almost jammy flavors are perfectly framed by ripe acidity. Note of bitter chocolate. The mourvedre gives this wine superb grip, with the big but sophisticated tannins reaching the front teeth.