NV Henri Giraud Grand Cru Ay Fut de Chene MV20
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Tasting notes
Henri Giraud’s MV bottling combines a third of wine drawn from their perpetual reserve with two thirds of the base vintage – in this case, 2010. The base wines were all fermented and aged in Argonne oak for one year prior to going into bottle for secondary fermentation. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, it was disgorged in 2017 – benefiting from some additional post-disgorgement ageing. We last tasted this a year ago and the wine has only improved. The nose is rich and ripe, reminiscent of Amontillado Sherry – with yeasty complexity, nutty tones and dried fruit, as well as bright candied peel, honey and hints of smoky oak spice. The nose is pure decadence, while the palate delivers a beautiful contrast – texturally broad and round, with softly stewed apple, yet driven by a mineral, chalky line and zesty freshness. Long, powerful and serious Champagne.
The nose is bright and highly expressive, leaping out of the glass with plenty of complexity, yet remaining composed and harmonious. It’s tactile and well-structured. Leading the way are pithy citrus fruits, particularly yellow-toned varieties, which then give way to subtle notes of baked goods—leaning towards Biscoff and a touch of nuttiness. Hints of mandarin follow through, complemented by a delicate floral essence. The palate mirrors the nose, with added depth from toasted notes, oak, and a fine salinity that integrates beautifully with its refined minerality. The mousse is clean and well-balanced—neither aggressive nor lacking—settling gracefully in the middle. The acidity is well-judged, leading to a long, mouth-watering finish. This is excellent.
Hailing from the celebrated Grand Cru terroir of Aÿ in Champagne’s Argonne Forest, the MV10 is crafted with care, spending 12 months in French oak barrels that elevate its complexity. The nose is a fragrant dance of ripe orchard fruits, lush mango, and delicate honeysuckle, inviting you in with its vibrant, tropical allure. On the palate, a beautiful harmony unfolds, where the rich fruitiness is balanced by a touch of savory thyme and a subtle kick of white pepper. Bright citrus peel adds a refreshing lift, highlighting the wine’s lively acidity. The finish is crisp and lasting, with a soft, minerally finish that lingers gracefully. This wine is a true expression of its terroir, offering elegance, depth, and a lasting impression.
Critic scores
Average Score
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The MV 20 is a wonderful bridge to the top wines in the range. Apricot, lemon confit, white pepper and crushed rocks build in the glass, filling out the layers effortlessly. The MV 20 is beautifully done, and yet I can't help thinking it is holding back quite a bit of its potential. There's certainly a lot to look forward to. Disgorged: April 2025.
Disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter, Henri Giraud’s NV Aÿ Grand Cru MV20 is composed entirely from Aÿ fruit and blends 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay. Based on the 2020 vintage and enriched with 33% from the perpetual reserve established in 1990, it is vinified in a mix of 50% new oak and 50% once-used barrels. It rises from the glass with a compelling bouquet of pear, mirabelle plum, orange zest and apricot, mingling with toasted bread and nutmeg. Full-bodied and textural, with a robust and muscular profile, it reveals intricate layers and captivating charm, uplifted by bright acidity and culminating in a long, precise finish. Observant tasters will note that this cuvée no longer bears the Fût de Chêne designation; it is now simply labeled MV followed by the last two digits of the base vintage, which typically constitutes around two-thirds of the blend.
The MV 20 is fabulous. It's not an obvious wine but rather a Champagne built on finesse and understatement more than anything else. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint and chalk open first, followed by light tropical accents that appear with a bit of time in the glass. This is such a racy, classy Champagne. Disgorged: October 30, 2024.
About the producer
Henri Giraud is one of the most exciting and pioneering Champagne houses today. Based in Äy, the property’s story begins in the early 17th century, when the Hémart family settled in the region.