2006 Vosne Romanee Beaumonts

Brightness and cut of fresh cherry and fraise du bois allied to mossy forest floor mark the nose of Bertagna's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts, which characteristics inhabit a rather delicate and texturally refined yet expansively flavorful palate, joined by suggestions of roasted meat. A long, succulent, intriguingly earthy finish bespeaks this wine's noble origins, and in its low-key way it should remain highly satisfying for at least 6-8 years. Long-time cellar overseer Denis Rozat – who now works with director Christophe Vial – indicated that they backed off considerably on extraction in 2006 compared with 2005, and some wines of the resulting collection seemed to reflect that approach in their charm, balance and youthful expressivity, not just their relatively lightness of color and weight. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.