2012 Chablis Les Sechets

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Sechet, which comes from vines over 50 years old on hard white limestone soil, has a well- defined mineral-driven bouquet with touches of smoke and flint. The palate is fresh and vibrant with cutting citrus edge on the entry that gives ways to white peach and dried apricot toward the taut and detailed finish. Excellent. Drink now-2022. Raveneau or Vincent Dauvissat? Cognoscenti seem to be split about which of these growers represent the pinnacle of Chablis, though frankly I would not complain if I found either in my glass. I have adored these wines for many years, though this was the first time that I had visited their small 16th and 17th century cellars. Vincent’s grandfather was one of the first to bottle his own wines in the 1930s, then Rene took over with his wife Madeleine and enhanced the domaine’s reputation until his retirement. Vincent told me that the first vintage that he participated in was the 1977 and that know-how had been passed down through empiricism, from father to son and so on. There are around 14 hectares of vine, predominantly premier cru. The 2012s bestowed a normal crop in terms of quantity, although 2013 was down to around 28 hectoliters per pectare, though Vincent emphasized that this was not catastrophic. “The crus had the same analysis in 2012. The terroir making the difference,” he said. He used around 10% to 15% of new oak, the rest a mixture of aged wood. Unsurprisingly, these were a set of quite sublime expressions of Chablis that leave you questioning whether it’s worth bothering with the rest of the tastings (which of course it is, but you know what I mean when you taste something that you are convinced will not be bettered.) These Chablis seem to be sculpted by the earth itself, exquisitely balanced and with more minerality than almost all of their peers. Even the village cru would leave other premier crus behind. The 2013s were unfortunately in an awkward stage, although I had a chance to taste a couple from barrel. I look forward to tasting them on my next visit. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Under the Dauvissat-Camus label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352 1100; and Domaine Direct and Justerini & Brooks in the UK.

Stony aromas of white pepper, biscuit and white truffle. Dense and energetic, with a distinctly savory saline quality leavening the intense lemon and mineral flavors. Finishes stony and very long, with terrific energy and grip. Very youthful in the early going.

The 2012 Chablis Sechets is marked by intense beams of supporting acidity and minerality that are the hallmarks of this cool site. The style is big and distinctly broad shouldered, especially next to the other wines in the range. White flowers, crushed rocks and pears inform the cool, bracing, powerful finish. Sechets doesn't often get a whole lot of attention, but is a wine that ages effortlessly. There is a lot to like here.