2006 Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The 2006 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs leads with musky floral notes, high-toned almond, and piquant peach kernel; displays toasty nuttiness along with generously juicy citrus and peach fruit (and persistent floral perfume) on an opulent, texturally-refined palate; and finishes with persistent muskiness and rich fruit, seemingly just hinting at sweetness (even though there are under eight grams of sugar) but with offsetting and haunting piquancy. Amusingly, given its name, this puts one in mind of Forster Kirchenstuck in its exotic decadence. Klaus-Peter Keller says his grapes weren’t soft yet when the August rain hit, and he harvested late by local standards – from 6th-26th of October – by which time the nights were cool, which in his opinion preserved the aromas, warded-off botrytis, and allowed him to achieve normal crop levels, expressive ripeness and dry wines in the 11.9-13% alcohol range. Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Keller owns 3 ha on this site; yields 4 tonnes per ha (c 28 hl/ha). 10 hours’ skin contact, fermented in old oak and stainless steel with ambient yeast. Heartbreaking delicacy – hints of lemon, clementines and stones and very subtle blossom. On the palate, so fine it seems soft and yet has a firm underlying savoury minerality and intensity. Fresh, long lingering finish. Great elegance and fresh-faced beauty – so much so that, daft as it may sound, it brought tears to my eyes. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.