2006 Gigondas Pierre Aiguille

The 2006 Gigondas Pierre Anguille (70% Grenache) exhibits good extract and ripeness along with notes of crushed rocks, black cherries and currants. It should drink nicely for 7-8 years. Readers have to recognize that everything is in a state of transition at Paul Jaboulet-Aine. The Jaboulets sold this old family firm, founded in the early eighteen hundreds, to the Frey family, major investors in the Billecart-Salmon Champagne house and proprietors of Chateau La Lagune in the Medoc. A new winemaking team, which includes the brilliant Bordeaux Professor Denis Dubourdieu for the white wines, has been installed. As these tasting notes demonstrates, they seem to be moving quickly to erase some of the lackluster wines produced from the mid-1990s through 2004. However, much still needs improvement. I suspect, given the Frey’s resources as well as their accomplishments at Chateau La Lagune, this historic firm is in good hands, and the listless quality of these releases will be forgotten very quickly. The red wine portfolio includes some disappointing cuvees, especially the 2005s, which seem to have narrowed out and become harder, leaner, and more austere. The first vintage for which the Frey family had some degree of control, 2006, is a mixed year, but generally the wines are good. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Dark red. Smoky red berries are complemented by cured meat, tobacco and herbs; the 20% syrah component is taking the lead today. Supple red berry flavors are gently tannic, and finish with good sweetness. This is already drinking well.