2016 Gigondas Le Grand Montmirail

Brilliant ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, cherry liqueur and candied flowers are energized by a smoky mineral topnote. Gently sweet and focused on the palate, offering juicy red and blue fruit flavors that deepen and spread out steadily with aeration. Shows candied licorice and allspice notes on a long, sappy finish that features smooth tannins and a lingering floral note.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault. Glossy, fleshy and savoury on the palate – loads of liquorice and leather and just-ripe black fruit. Fine tannin, soft acid, medium body. Not as much oomph as many 2016s – a restrained style with good ageing potential. (RH)

Already bottled, the 2016 Gigondas Tradition les Grands Montmirail is a plummy, rich wine but not quite as fudge-like as the 2015. Instead, it has more vitality and freshness on the palate and a long, velvety finish that even hints of red fruit. It's a step in the right direction.