2021 Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewachs
Market price
Buying options
Tasting notes
The bittersweet perfume suggestive of iris and buddleia is utterly alluring – and of a sort that reminds me of Keller’s Grosses Gewächs from neighboring Abtserde. Along with those notes come pungent green herbal scents as well as striking marine mineral elements, at once enticingly, bracingly saline but also chalky and lightly iodine-like. The inner-mouth concentration of herbal, floral and mineral elements is implosive and allied to a vibrant sense of energy projected by zesty lime. The finish is almost severe in its penetrance, leaving one’s gums tingling, almost smarting, and saturated with flavor. Talk about a wine that needs time!
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Cask sample. Marked by the spiciness of the Grosse Gewächse in this vintage, but here with more intense mineral rock-dust aromas. A herbal intensity, streaked with citrus. Piercing and direct on the palate, the mouth-watering citrusy acidity is like an arrow across the palate leaving freshness in its long feathery wake. The acidity seems less well integrated here than in the Oberer Hubacker. Needs time to come together. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.