2018 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett H
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Tasting notes
As with this wine’s vintage 2017 predecessor, the nose is ravishingly floral, this time suggestive of honeysuckle, orange blossom and lemon grass, from behind which emerge intimations of the white peach, grapefruit and quince that are the principal fruity players on a buoyant, silken palate. Once again, too, sweetness here is perfectly judged, so as to support the fruit while backing off on the finish, thus enhancing its remarkable transparency to smoky, stony and saline as well as floral and herbal nuances – about which one could go on shaking one’s head and expounding at length. Succulent and seductive, yes; feather-light, check; but the cut, definition, penetration and tingling animation are what most decisively point to the extent of Keller’s success. Not only do they testify to an efficacious acidity rare for the vintage, but more profoundly, they testify to Keller’s remarkable aptitude for harnessing the energy of his vines and the potential of a great site. (You may see this wine referred to as “Gold Capsule” – and it does indeed carry a gold capsule – or as “Prince Louis.” But it’s all the same Hipping Kabinett, A.P. #35, which sold at auction for an eye-watering price. For more on the location of Keller’s Hipping vines and their connection with English royalty, consult my tasting note on his 2014 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling HM.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Cask sample. This wine is a present for the British royal family to mark the birth of William and Kate's third child Louis. Very different from the Limestone Kabinett on the nose, plenty of citrus fruit, a light herbal note but more salty and a more stony/mineral character. On the palate, fabulous fruit purity, so precise and chiselled that the sweetness is in the background – though without it the intense freshness would be too much. With the sweetness it is in fine harmony. On the palate, orange and orange pith, ripe lemon and green fruits too. Doesn’t have the spice and smokiness of the Hipping Grosses Gewächs but does have the same fruit character, and persistence. This is a Kabinett of notable intensity but it doesn’t lose its vitality. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.