2004 Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble Vaulorent

Though they are all outstanding, the star among Domaine William Fevre’s premier crus is the exceptional 2004 Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent. Its profound aromatics reveal notes of apples dusted with minerals and chalk. Broad, ample, rich, and suave, this wine also boasts superb precision, freshness, and focus. Jam-packed with stone flavors amid hints of ripe pears, this effort’s flavor profile is also stupendously long. Projected maturity: now-2014. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

(domain) Pale green-yellow color.Deep aromas of powdered stone, minerals, spearmint and gingery spices. Rich, full and rather powerful, with impressive texture and ripe acids. This has the complexity and volume of a grand cru.