1989 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre
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Robert Parker
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
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1989 appears to be Raveneau's finest vintage since 1986 and 1978. The 1989 Chablis-Montee de Tonnerre exhibits a provocative, flinty, stony nose, huge, impeccably precise flavors of butter, stones, lemons, and oranges, super acidity, admirable ripeness and intensity, as well as an explosive finish. Approachable now, it should hit its peak by the late nineties and last through the first decade of the next century. What is so amazing about this offering from Raveneau is that while a muscular example of Chablis, it tastes refreshing and never heavy - a remarkable achievement. In Chassagne-Montrachet it is Domaine Ramonet, in Puligny-Montrachet it is Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Sauzet, in Meursault it is Domaine Comte Lafon and Domaine Coche-Dury, and in Chablis it is the Domaine Raveneau. Father, Francois Raveneau, and his son, Jean-Marie, produce the quintessential Chablis from their nearly 17 acres of vineyards. They are wines of extraordinary flavor depth, length, and dimension. Moreover, they evolve and last for 15 to 20 or more years. Witness the extraordinary 1978s, just now reaching their peak. Importer: Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA.