2006 Riesling Klaus Smaragd

In what looks to become a sign of the times, the 2006 Riesling Smaragd Klaus is almost Auslese-like in its richness (even at over 14% alcohol). But there is an underlying sense of stony minerality and subtle fruit pit bitterness that help check any suggestion of sweetness. The sense of sheer density and of minerality here are formidable, but there is more refinement and vivacity than is exhibited by most of the Smaragd bottlings of Riesling here today. Toasted nuts, lemon oil, honey, peach preserves inform a powerful but not at all warm finish. Plan on following this for 7-9 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700