2013 Riesling Unendlich Smaragd

From 60% Kellerberg and 40% Loibenberg fruit, this installment of the periodically rendered Pichler Riesling essence leads with high-toned scents of lemon oil and lemon blossom as well as intimations of the white peach and pink grapefruit that then lusciously inform a glycerol-rich, subtly creamy, enveloping palate. Billowing inner-mouth perfume of gentian and iris add bittersweet allure, and there is smoky, peppery counterpoint, especially in the finish, such as one usually expects to encounter in Pichler Riesling primarily with Steinertal- and Kellerberg-dedicated bottlings. A dark, deeply savory, resonant finish certainly makes a serious effort at living up to the name “Endless,” adding a welcome touch of saliva-stimulating salinity. Incidentally, this finished at 13.9% alcohol, modest by historical standards set by “Unendlich” bottlings, and amazing considering that, as Lucas Pichler explained, this installment derived from pickings done just ahead of the main harvest of certain parcels where subtly desiccated berries could be found, the latest of which was in mid-November. I’ve often referred to installments of Unendlich as “liqueurs of Riesling,” but that would almost be to do a disservice to the clarity and dynamic complexity of this one.