2014 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Beerenauslese

The 60 liters of this Chartreuse-like elixir were picked on October 10 with more than 13 grams of total acidity--as Keller puts it, “before botrytis could become dominant and juiciness would be lost.” High-toned suggestions of mint and gentian distillates carry over to the palate as ethereal, cooling essences, accompanied by nectarine preserves, quince jelly, candied lemon and orange marmalade. The feel here is remarkably firm, perhaps a hardening engendered by the botrytis. The overtly but not overly sweet finish is impressively sustained, with a hint of salinity offering welcome saliva-inducement, though not to remotely the extent exhibited by the corresponding Auslese.