2012 Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rare Vintage

2012 is a great vintage in Champagne, and even with a decade behind it this feels young, fresh, hints of autoloysis but nothing intrusive. Touches of honeysuckle on the palate, powerful, fine and delicate, citrus and fresh apricot, and a nuttier apricot pit. As it opens, dried fruits and complex layers of white truffle, salty cracker and grilled almonds arrive. Freshness and tension is a sign of the 2012 vintage and you find it here in spades. Guillaume Lete is the cellar cellar master, born in Champagne and with DBR since 2011 after stints with Chandon in Napa, then Dom Perignon in Epernay. Minimum 4 years ageing on lattes. From 6ha of their own vineyards from four Grands Cru villages including Mesnil-sur-Ogier. 4g/l dosage, 60hl/h yield. 18,000 bottles and 3000 magnums. It's interesting, incidentally, to see the Barons de Rothschild Champagnes on the Place de Bordeaux - certainly makes sense, as all three branches of the family are involved in its production, although I wonder if this is one of the rare cases where the Rothschild name works against the wine being taken seriously, as it is so tough to get credibility as a new entrant into Champagne. It's a shame if so, as this is a great Champagne, an under the radar hit. Tasted twice.

Compact yet persuasive nose of white flowers, smoke, poached pear, plums and spices. Generous and broad on the palate with a delicate mousse and silky texture.

Very pretty buttered-brioche, cooked-apple and lemon aromas follow through to a full body with a creamy texture and a subtle, flavorful finish. Butter at the end. Dosage 4 g/L. Drink now.