2010 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

The 2010 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet is impenetrable at this stage. It boasts a serious core of rich, deep fruit, but the aromatic registers haven't developed yet. Today, it comes across as a bit heavy and monolithic, perhaps because of the old vines in this parcel. If the wine finds its grand cru finesse in bottle, it may merit a higher score in the future.

The 2010 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet is impenetrable at this stage. It boasts a serious core of rich, deep fruit, but the aromatic registers haven’t developed yet. Today, it comes across as a bit heavy and monolithic, perhaps because of the old vines in this parcel. If the wine finds its grand cru finesse in bottle, it may merit a higher score in the future. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale-medium yellow. Clove, menthol and mirabelle on the nose; more soil- than fruit-driven. Sweet, dense and rather powerful, with sound acidity framing the flavors of peach flesh and nut oil. Finishes spicy, long and youthfully austere--in fact almost aggressive for Bienvenues, almost certainly owing to a bit of unconverted malic acidity.