2023 Riesling Ried Kellerberg Smaragd
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Dürnstein. A 15.65-ha terraced vineyard with south-south-east exposure. Certified Sustainable Austria. This is so mineral, earth-bound and dense it's chewy; you almost have to work at it. And the work pays off: liquorice, lime pith, lime rind; peach, pomelo with its considerable rind. Spice, herb, earth, everything bound up together but not heavy or hard to access. Lovely texture, sparkly with minerals. It will get easier with time. (TQT)
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Extremely pronounced Mediterranean-herb aromas pour from the glass. Then comes the radical minerality of this austere masterpiece that has Amalfi lemons and a few wild-berry notes but none of the usual stone-fruit charm. Either this will blow your mind with its stony intensity or you’ll want something else. In spite of all this, there’s a lovely little burst of juiciness in the long, very focused finish. Drink or hold.
The 2023 Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd, with its south-southeast aspect, benefits from being shaded in the afternoon by the neighboring Höhereck site. Pink grapefruit and spicy tangerine present a nose that is as ripe as it is fresh, juicy, aromatic and enticing with its pure citrus scent. Stone and citrus foliage also sweep in. Subtle yeastiness pulls all together to show lovely tension, brightness and zestiness. What a gorgeous, clean-cut wine of citrus vivacity. Wonderful and so appetizing. Full of energy. (Bone-dry)