2018 Alexandre Filaine Sensum Vertigo Brut

The 2018 Champagne Millesime Sensum Vertigo Brut is elegant and refined, a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and the remainder Meunier. In the glass, it pours a pale yellow/straw color and is initially understated and floral, with delicate smoky reduction followed by notes of white peach, raspberries, fresh flowers, and almond pastry. Medium-bodied, it is more compact in its focus and leans into notes of citrus oils, a zesty, refined mousse, and a cleansing finish. I anticipate this only improving over several years, with a wide window for enjoyment over the coming 15 or more years. Drink 2025-2046. Fabrice Gass’s small family estate is a shining star based in Damery in the Montagne de Reims. The wines display richness, depth, and precision, with a gentle touch of reduction. Formerly the cooper of Bollinger, today Fabrice is joined by his son Gabriel. Each of the three cuvées they produce is aged in barrels, including barrels formerly used by Bollinger. The SP and DMY are always crafted as a blend from two consecutive vintages, while the Sensum Vertigo is their vintage wine. While the SP offers the most immediacy in the range, the DMY stands above the rest as the most comprehensive picture of what the estate has to offer. (Although I would love to have a few bottles of Sensum Vertigo stashed away, just in case that changes years down the road.) These are wines that improve with air, and I have found myself, on more than one occasion, noting that the last glass from the bottle is the best – and also drunk too soon. The SP sees three years sur latte and typically sees a touch more dosage compared to the DMY, while the DMY and the Millesime are aged for five years on the lees prior to disgorgement. Riddling and disgorgement are entirely done by hand, à la volée. They own seven parcels, all within Damery, which they farm organically. Production is approximately 5000 bottles a year.