2022 Restless River Pinot Noir
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Tasting notes
Smoke, black cherry, lovely ripe cranberry fruit with crunch and concentration. The smokiness does seem to have a Cape flavour, but it integrates seamlessly with the rest of the wine. (RH)
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Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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The Restless River 2022 Upper Hemel-En-Aarde Valley Le Luc is all Pinot Noir from granite soils. Fruit comes from younger vines planted in 2013 on a north-facing slope. The wine ages in 228-liter barrels, of which one-third is new oak for 12 months. This mostly hands-off approach results in a delicate wine with tart berry nuances, redcurrant and crushed stone. Some of the salty mineral sensations you find here, which give such nice contouring to the wine, come thanks to those granite soils. It concludes softly with a medium-lean mouthfeel, pretty freshness and brightness. This is a 5,500-bottle release.
A deliciously saline and savory red that has notes of wild mushrooms, cranberries, rhubarb, beets and spices. It’s medium-bodied, earthy and framed with fine, lightly powdery tannins that spread across the palate. Real pinot character. From a single vineyard planted in 1998. Try from 2025.
The 2022 Le Luc was whole-berry-fermented with 20% whole cluster and matured in 35% new oak. This has an attractive bouquet of very pure redcurrant and raspberry fruit alongside a touch of strawberry pastille. There’s lovely delineation here. It’s quite Côte de Nuits-like, thanks to its florality. The palate is smooth, rounded and slightly lush in style, maintaining precision as a touch of sour cherry enlivens the finish. Give it a year in bottle.