2023 Beaune Cent Vignes
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Beaune 1er Cru Les Cents Vignes bursts with aromas of raspberries, plums, spices and petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely concentrated, with sweet tannins and good depth at the core, this is a site that does well in years where there isn't appreciable hydric stress. David Croix's well-deserved reputation as one of the leading talents among his generation in the Côte de Beaune is founded on hard work in the vineyards, something I regularly witness in the Beaune premiers crus where I have the good fortune to have him as a neighbor. Soils are cultivated mechanically or by animal traction; canopies are hedged late and high or managed by "tressage" without cutting their apical shoots; harvesting privileges full physiological maturity; and in the winery, winemaking is classical, often retaining some stems, followed by élevage in barrels and, for some cuvées, foudres. Sensual and suave, the 2023s are a fine success at this address, with the Beaune Grèves taking the crown this year and standing out as a benchmark for the appellation.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Neal Martin, Vinous
More reviews and scores
I tasted the 2023 Beaune Les Cents Vignes 1er Cru from a new 500-liter barrel. It has a seductive nose with crushed strawberry, raspberry and floral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crushed- stone-infused red fruit, a harmonious texture and a minerally, slightly savory finish. Excellent. "The 2023 vintage is the largest since I started in 2005," David Croix tells me. "The first in which I produced the volume I'm legally allowed. The average is 50 hl/ha, so I am not at a level where it is being distilled. Once in a while, that feels good. The wines have an ease to them, especially on the clayey soils or at the bottom of the hill, but they're not just pretty wines, something that I have realized during barrel maturation. The crazy heat wave at harvest impacted the style of the wines as the sugar levels went up quickly. It was extreme, in a sense. We picked beginning on September 4 with one parcel, the main heart of the picking occurring between September 6-13. At 10 a.m., it was already 27°C. We only picked before midday, and we gained two degrees in alcohol during the week of picking. We had done some green harvesting, but I know people that did that, and the vines then compensated, so yields still ended up high. It was another year where I struggled with native yeasts and getting the sugars to start fermenting. Having higher pH makes things complicated. There were three cuvées where I could not get the fermentation going, so I am using a more scientific method of harnessing the yeasts in the vineyard, like a pied de cuve, so that the fermentation is ready to go. I think 2023 is a bit like 2017 but the heatwave imparts more concentration and extract. The wines have really been changing but, at the moment, I only see two cuvées that might need a longer barrel maturation."
20% whole bunch vinification. A medium to dark crimson, with a slightly unresponsive bouquet. Slightly sombre crushed strawberries, correct acidity, medium length. Attractive for early drinking.