2015 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay

In the style of the vieux Savagnin, they age ouillé for a long time and sell it in half bottles as the new, at least for me, 2015 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay Ouillé. It aged for seven years in barrel in a cold and wet cellar. Here, the blind guessing went completely astray, partly because it's a new wine and partly because of the long aging, which gives it a very different profile. It has incredible aromatics, including some flor-like notes of spice and mushrooms, a creamy mouthfeel (a giveaway for Chardonnay?), but it's also very fresh and with lively acidity, one of the cleanest and more transparent Chardonnays I remember here, developing notes of pollen and spice as the wine sat in the glass. It has a light color and feels young and undeveloped, complex but young. I found it quite rich, but Manu said he found it lighter than usual. It was my first encounter with this wine... I don't know if this wine belongs here or in the regular Chardonnay, because later we tasted a truly vieux Chardonnay from 1991...