2018 Aristargos

53% Chenin Blanc, 13% Clairette Blanche, 13% Sémillon, 10% Roussanne, 9% Viognier, 2% Marsanne. This was David & Nadia’s first wine. Predominantly old-vine Chenin Blanc, with younger Clairette, Sémillon, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne blended in. There are no old-vine examples of the Rhône varieties in South Africa (the Marsanne for example was planted in 2013). They have planted their own Roussanne to guard against ‘the politics of availability’. Granitic Paardeberg soils form the base of some Chenin Blanc vineyards, the two Sémillon sites and Clairette Blanche, while the Marsanne, one Viognier vineyard and more Chenin Blanc are on iron-rich clay soils on the western side of Malmesbury, blended with more Viognier, Roussanne and more Chenin Blanc from the northerly clay-rich soils, with finally the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyard that David & Nadia work (1962) planted in sandy soils on underlying schist. ‘6 varieties, 14 vineyards, 20 pickings, a variety in soils, one appellation, one vision, one wine.’ Whole-bunch pressed and naturally fermented, matured for 11 months in old, neutral French oak barrels. The Sémillon was left on skins for a week before being pressed and matured in a very old 2,500-litre foudre. Yield 1.2–3.5 t/ha. 8,500 bottles produced. Bright gold. Lightly reductive nose, round and supple. Lower acidity than the Chenins. Well made and very smooth – polished. Long and quite emphatic. (JR)