2014 Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Garenne Duc de Magenta

(these 80+-year-old vines, which Frédéric Barnier described as "near the end of their lives," produced just over half of a normal crop in 2014 as they suffered through a hot, dry flowering): Very ripe, inviting aromas of yellow peach, butter and clove. Wonderfully rich, plush and sweet, but the ripe yellow peach fruit and creamy old-vines texture are enlivened by mineral lift. Finishes tactile and very long, with a strong impression of dry extract. A superb vintage for this consistently excellent wine bottling.

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1Er Cru Clos de la Garenne, which I thought was a monopole but apparently is not, comes from 90-year-old vines, some of the oldest belonging to Louis Jadot. Despite their age, they are still productive. It has a very refined bouquet with a surfeit of walnut and popcorn scents allied with fine mineralité. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, very tensile with just a twist of bitter lemon lending edginess towards the finish. Very fine, very classy.

Within all the delicious creamy aroma there’s a light note of blossom and pear. Delicately fresh with a fine mineral quality. Tight and still creamy but a tiny bit dilute on the mid palate so that the finish is just moderate. (JH)