2020 Magnetic North

The 2020 Magnetic North comes from iron-rich soils and vines planted in 1981 and 1984. It has a distinctive nose with rooibos and fynbos scents, earthy perhaps and well-defined; you'll either love it or hate it (mine is the former). The palate is well balanced with a very tangy entry: marmalade, kumquat and grapefruit, so bitter that it might put some people off. But Alheit describes it as a "weirdo" and the best wine he's made. Impressive, though not his best wine in this vintage (then again, the bar is set high at this address.)