2009 Vinsobres Les Hauts de Julien Vieilles Vignes

The Perrin et Fils 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages-Vinsobres Vieilles Vignes Les Hauts Julien is the most brilliant wine produced in Vinsobres. The Perrins now own 140 acres in Vinsobres, and this is the best selection of the oldest vines. I recently had a bottle of the 2007 at the wonderful New Orleans restaurant, Herbsaint, and while it was still young, it was a brilliant expression of cool climate, high elevation Grenache and Syrah. Made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah, the 2009 hits all the palate’s sweet spots offering up notes of graphite, truffles, blueberries, blackberries, licorice and camphor. Full-bodied with crisp acidity, wonderful purity and vivid freshness and delineation, it should drink well for 10-15+ years. (Not yet released) The Perrin brothers, Jean-Pierre and Francois, and their sons, Thomas, Marc, Pierre and Mathieu, have long owned over 200 acres of top sites in Chateauneuf du Pape and can now claim over 1,000 acres in the southern Rhone as their empire under the Perrin et Fils label expands considerably. This is good news for consumers as the Perrins, one of the great winemaking families of France, are dedicated to producing high quality wines, preserving top terroirs, and to providing a range of wines in all price ranges that are as good as consumers can expect. Purchasing a wine from this family is about as close to a guarantee of authenticity and high quality as one can expect. There is no secret to surviving the recent world-wide recession and fragile economy. No matter what field one is in – wine, the service industry, product development, etc., one has to over deliver in order to keep consumers happy. Don’t do that, expect a dwindling economic return and possible failure. The Perrins long ago adopted this philosophy, even in boom times. Speaking of wines that over deliver, readers should be searching out the super inexpensive, bargain priced La Vieille Ferme offerings. The Perrins have put together a terrific portfolio of top wines from the leading Cotes du Rhone Villages. With the exception of the estate wines in Vinsobres, they are all dominated by Grenache. To date, the finest wines have emerged from the 2007 vintage, but very strong efforts have been produced in 2009. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

90-year-old vines, half Grenache, half Syrah, interplanted and co-fermented. 15% aged in oak. Real intensity on the nose but still subtle. Rich and cool and very sophisticated. Fragrant and fruity but not jumping up and down – much more assured, even at this stage. Dense, almost stern in its concentration but also elegant and fresh. A testament to old vines. Only 6,000 bottles. Perrin's Vinsobres look really good in 2009. (JH)