2008 Cotes du Roussillon Bila Haut V.I.T

A 60-40 Grenache-Syrah (as well as chalk-clay - schist) blend raised in various sizes of barrel, the Bila-Haut 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France v.i.t is gorgeously-scented with gentian, iris, wild berries, and spice; then delivers a bright melange of fresh black and red raspberry with smoked meat, licorice, cinnamon and tonka nut. Succulently ripe and subtly velvety, with tannins so fine as to nearly disappear, this builds to a finish of vibratory impingement and interactive complexity, all reminiscent of the extraordinary 2006 (reviewed in issue 183) and likely to dazzle for well more than a decade, even if the track record for this cuvee is not yet that long. Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.) Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456