2003 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Enticed by the heat of 2003, many growers in their hunt for Oechsle records could not believe that the Kellers opted for a relatively early harvest in the first days of October. It cannot be denied that the hot and dry weather left its mark on the Hubacker too, but with notes of lanolin, honey and baked apple it has fared rather well. Add smoky minerality and roasted nuts for good measure, allow for a hint of petrol, and you have a complexity that will give pleasure for a few more years as the early harvest paid off with a life-prolonging fair measure of acidity. (MS)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
4-8 October – earliest vintage. He didn’t hedge and went for maximum shade. It was a risk (in terms of rain) that paid off. 31 hl/ha. Brown pips imbue longevity, according to KP and the Pichlers. The lowest acidity of the range: 6ish compared with 7 or 8 g/l. Vibrant nose. Broad and fully evolved on the nose. More in common with the 2001 than the 2002 in its light candy character. But racier than the 2001! Fragile and transparent. Lots of life and vibrancy here, just maybe slightly shorter than perfection. Very brilliant fruit. Certainly a triumph over the challenges of the vintage but just a little jagged. (JR)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.