2018 Morstein Spatburgunder Felix GG
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Tasting notes
Keller's 2018 Morstein Spätburgunder GG Alte Reben Felix is a fascinating rarity of which only two barrels have been made. Partly destemmed by hand yet vinified with 50% whole clusters, the wine opens with deep, fascinating, intense and spicy, highly finessed and elegant fruit that is reminiscent of black cherries, dark and red berries. Concentrated but structured and very intense on the palate, with a thrilling vitality and refreshing grip, this is an elegant, silky, juicy, pure and salty Pinot with sustainable grip and tension and a very intense and complex finish that indicates marvelous aging potential. Weightless intensity and length—absolutely fascinating.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
This will be an auction wine only. 72-year-old vines, top-grafted in 2009 with Burgundy clones, yield 16–17 hl/ha without green harvest. 50% stems. Hand destemmed so that they can keep the small side stems (the pedicels ) but cut out the main, thicker stem in the middle (the bunchstem ). Two barrels. It took Felix Keller and a team of four two days to destem like that. Cask sample. Deeper cherry red than the Frauenburg with soft pink rim. A little deeper and richer on the nose, too. Creamy and sweet fruited, very little sign of the stems except in the freshness and later in the tannins. Firm, compactly intense, the tannins are firmer but so unbelievably smooth you might overlook them. Fresh, ripe-fruited. The tannins start to build to a firmer grip as you taste a second time. So elegant and refined. Long and scented on the palate yet with a savoury, dry aftertaste. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.