2017 Frauenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
A penetratingly sharp and high-toned nose evokes fresh sour cherry, kirsch, holly berry, black tea, lemon peel and mustard seed. Bittersweet floral and pungent dried green herbal notes point to the roughly 35% of intact clusters retained in the ferment this vintage. (For information about Keller’s unique recent approach with the stems of Pinot Noir, see my review of his 2016 Frauenberg Spätburgunder.) There is a silken textural appeal on the palate, but allied to underlying firmness. As you work this around in your mouth, savor of marrowy red meat as well as of shellfish stock adds to the already abundant complexity anticipated on the nose. The superbly sustained finish is tongue-tingling and saliva-inducing. In its salinity, sense of chalk infusion, brightness, aromatic penetration and cut, this is a Pinot that displays strong Riesling kinship. I must confess that I am in that majority of those lucky enough to taste Keller’s annual lineup as well as a considerable number of mature Rieslings, in that I have virtually no experience with his Pinot Noirs except in their youth. So my speculations concerning ageworthiness – including my generous prognostication for this particular wine – should be read with that in mind.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Barrel sample. 35–40% stems to add a little more structure. This vineyard is a little higher than Bürgel. Same Muschelkalk (shell-limestone) soils. A little darker than the Bürgel, like freshly pressed raspberry juice. Translucent. Slightly darker fruited too, though still fragrant and lifting out of the glass. A little more fruit sweetness and a touch of oak sweetness perhaps, just a hint of sweet spice. (Though there is no new oak in the Kellers’ cellar – just a couple of second-use barrels, the rest older). Klaus Peter suggests that what appears to be more oak influence is in fact the effect of a higher percentage of stems. But there’s orange too. Complex in its purity. A slightly darker fruit character and a little less intensity in the mouth. Delicate and perfect freshness, silkiest of tannins. Different fruit profile and structure from the Bürgel but that same refined fragrance and purity. Wonderful length even with the slighter weight on the mid palate. It is less open than the Bürgel and thus less charming at this moment but perhaps has longer potential. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.