2017 Rathfinny Rose Brut

The 2017 Brut Rosé is the third release for Rathfinny, disgorged in May 2020 after 24 months of aging on the lees with 4g/L dosage. It has quite a powerful bouquet of strawberry, freshly sliced melon and crushed stone scents, lively and gaining more energy after an hour. The palate is focused and taut, the fruit tightly bound, and an appealing steeliness comes through on the finish. This is a fine sparkling rosé that should drink well over the next decade.

2017 is their third vintage of rosé. Mark Driver likes to release a bit younger – he wants autolysis but doesn’t want them to overdevelop and take away from the fruit. ‘Rosé should be very expressive – it’s often drunk outside, in summer … so it needs to be expressive enough for that.’ 63% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier, 19% Chardonnay. (Although about 7% of the Pinot Noir is Pinot Précoce, or Frühburgunder.) 24 months on the lees, dosage 4 g/l, disgorged 31 January 2020. 12,000 bottles. I love the deep colour. No wan catwalk rosé here. Smells like Turkish delight and summer strawberry soup. Packed with fruit, sharp and sweet, lemon peel and crushed raspberries and nectarines. Mark says rhubarb, and I like that – it has an earthiness. Especially on the finish. Has quite a bit of chew and a light fresh-herbs note, chopped chervil. Fine line of mushroom in there, lingering on the finish. But the main impression on the finish is licking raspberry-scented rock salt. A real appetite whetstone of a wine. I'd love this with a slice of triple-cream cheese and damson syrup. (TC)