2012 Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg

Pichler and Krutzler’s 2012 Gruner Veltliner Wunderburg – from a rocky extension of the famed Kellerberg – was picked November 4, exactly one month later than the corresponding Superin that grew only a few hundred yards away toward the Danube. Satiny in texture, expansive and richly-fruited in its meld of peach and green bean, this delivers a veritable eruption of diverse mineral notes in its finish. Faint warmth is detectable from 14% alcohol, and this lacks the textural refinement, delineated complexity or intrigue of its strongest immediate siblings; but I would feel free to follow it through at least 2018. Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler (for extended accounts of whose young estate consult my issue 181 and 197 reports) continue to hone their distinctive style as well as to freely and intuitively experiment, unencumbered by local habit or by the structure – however arguably useful – of the Vinea Wachau’s trio of wine categories. They carefully filter and critically consider any received opinions, even (or, dare I suggest, especially) those of Elisabeth’s famous father, F.X. (Tasting and trading observations and anecdotes with husbands and wives of both generations was among the highlights of my most recent Austrian travels.) Picking at this estate began already in late September, though Krutzler laughingly attributes that in part to his red-wine mentality which encompasses rigorous crop-dropping, in which he intends to be less aggressive in future. Erich Krutzler places emphasis on the relatively small berries and high skin-to-juice ratio of 2012 fruit in delivering energy, structure and sheer personality surpassing those exhibited in 2011, and he was not afraid to observe his norm of 24-30 hours’ pre-fermentative skin contact. Even as Pichler and Krutzler continue to build their vine surface via some extremely savvy and lucky site selections, their technical capabilities are being enhanced as well. New large casks are gradually being introduced, and beginning with vintage 2014, new equipment will permit movement of fruit as well as wine entirely by gravity and open-up a wider range of pressing options. (I’ll review recent Blaufrankisch bottlings from this estate as part of a separate report highlighting wines of Burgenland, especially those from that grape.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0700