2023 Gruner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd
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Full bottle 1,263 g. Really white peppery on the nose and yet giving off notably 'cool' vibes – despite the hot end to the growing season. Very broad on the palate. This is likely to age well, surely: there is so much complexity! It's quite rich yet has sufficient acidity – just. The opposite of a Federspiel. Long but there's a little alcohol lurking in that finish. A work of art though. (JR)
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Jancis Robinson MW
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
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The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd was planted in 1997 with a varied selection of old genetics collected across Lower Austria on varying rootstocks. Bodenstein calls this wine his scientific experiment. This is planted in the upper part of the Achleiten, on rocks with very thin topsoil where Grüner struggles, but this is shaded from mid-afternoon onwards. This takes a while to open up, but there is a faint but very fine scent of citrus, almost with a touch of chervil. Again, the palate is rounder than the nose suggests, super-smooth, but with a lovely edge of zestiness, faint but utterly fresh, elongated, stony and graceful. There's quite a bit of power on the finish - beautifully long (Dry)