2012 Beaune Clos de la Mousse

A pure, elegant and airy nose features wisps of both red and dark pinot fruit along with subtle earth notes that are set off by relatively generous wood. There is excellent concentration and intensity to the middle weight plus flavors that possess excellent power and drive, all wrapped in a serious, balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This is a big Beaune with solid minerality and phenolic maturity and one to consider. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding*

The 2012 Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse (not Mouche!) is a monopole located toward Pommard where the soils are very shallow, around 25mm deep. The vines here are planted north to south rather than the orthodox east to west. It has very good definition on the nose with scents of mulberry and marmalade, floral scents emerging later. The palate is medium-bodied, lively and vigorous, hints of orange zest and marmalade once again infusing the red berry fruit. The tannins are fine and lithe with good delineation on the vibrant finish. This is very fine. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Bright red. Medicinal red cherry liqueur and mint on the nose. Supple and sweet on entry, then primary and vibrant in the middle, offering tart cranberry, redcurrant and slightly bitter citrus zest flavors. This very primary wine finishes with slightly dry tannins and a licorice nuance. I like the balance of density and lift.