2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu
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Tasting notes
Aged in 20% old oak, there’s a real depth to Samuel Billaud’s Mont de Milieu this year. The nose is stony, but with enticing notes of acacia and peach blossom alongside. It’s vibrant and driven, but with a roundness too – filling the mouth before it finishes on firm, flinty minerality and saline freshness.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru underwent partial wood aging and was bottled in May 2025. This sports a clever, subtle reduction on the nose that releases energy into the aromatics. The palate is well defined with gentle grip and more depth than the Les Fourneaux. This is a little flinty in style, with quite the persistent finish. The 2023 has great potential.
The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is a tensile, incisive wine that opens in the glass with notes of orange peel, beeswax and gooseberry mingled with oyster juice. Medium- to full-bodied, it is taut and precise, with a tightly coiled core and a mouthwatering, saline-tinged finish.
Sweet spot Outstanding - This is aromatically at once markedly ripe yet super-fresh with its array of white peach, pear and lemon-lime confit that also reflects just enough Chablis character to remind you where this is from. There is once again fine mid-palate density to the solidly powerful mineral-driven flavors that display fine length on the balanced finale that is not especially dry or austere. This harmonious and already nicely complex effort should easily repay up to a decade of keeping.
About the producer

Samuel Billaud started making wine under his own name in 2009, but he is one of the most experienced producers in Chablis, having made wine in the region since 1985.