2023 Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Garenne Duc de Magenta
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Tasting notes
The vines in this plot are over 80 years old – and they lend the wine additional intensity, which is impressive. The nose verges on tropical – with pineapple juice and mango, but it’s tamed by sherbet lift and smoky, gunflint notes. The palate is lively and tight, the intense core vibrating with potential. There’s a creamy roundness, driving on to the savoury, spicy finish. One of the standouts of the line-up in 2023.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne (Duc de Magenta) is medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline, with more cut and energy than the Maison bottling. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne (Duc de Magenta) is medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline, with more cut and energy than the Maison bottling.
Cask sample. Lightly dusty citrus. Stony grapefruit rather than ripe lemon. Taut, fresh, grainy and a bit lean for this quality level even with the creamy aftertaste.
About the producer
Louis Jadot is arguably the most consistent négociant house in Burgundy. It has managed to straddle both the entry-level and fine wine market, while retaining respect in both.