2007 Chateauneuf du Pape

Deep ruby. Pungent, floral aromas of red berries and herbs, plus an exotic touch of peach pit. Fleshy and smooth, with gently sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and tangy mineral lift. Accessible and drinking well now, this wine finishes with good clarity and punch.

The outstanding 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape performed even better from bottle than it did last year from barrel. A blend of 83% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and Counoise aged completely in neutral wood foudres, it exhibits aromas of pepper, roasted Provencal herbs, meat blood./juices, kirsch, and black currants. Savory, broad, and intense with velvety tannins as well as superb depth, this is a gorgeous Chateauneuf to drink over the next 10-14 years. A large estate by Chateauneuf du Pape standards (nearly 140 acres), Grand Tinel produces some of my favorite wines of the appellation as they always possess enormous aromatic appeal as well as flavor texture. Since consultant Philippe Cambie arrived in 2002, the quality has gotten dramatically higher. The estate did not present any 2008s for tasting, but given the brilliance of their 2007s, I'm not complaining. Importers: J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441 and Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Grenache Blanc 60%, Clairette 20%, Bourboulenc 20%. Almost all in stainless steel. Smells of old socks initially. Then it becomes quite interesting! A bit hot, but very rich and luscious. Easy to imagine with a rich shellfish dish. Still slight astringency on the finish, and heat. Spicy. (JR)