2017 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay

I previously tasted the 2017 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay back in June 2023. It comes from a very warm year marked by killer frost that lowered the yields and delivered very concentrated juice. It has weight and volume, and the nose is nuanced and ripe, with some notes of nuts, pollen and toasted bread. All of these bottlings are topped up (ouillé), and the barrels are kept full so flor does not develop, but the cellar must be saturated with yeasts, as I often find some yeasty hints. The wine seemed to be going through a slightly awkward phase, at least in the aromatics, because the palate is a lot fresher. It reflects the warm year, but it should come back with more time. This was also bottled after four years of aging in cask. White wax seals the bottle, as it does all Chardonnays here.