2015 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
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Tasting notes
(Oustanding)<br /> The 2015 vintage in Champagne is a certainly quite ripe yet Philipponnat seems to have harvested at the perfect time because blind, you wouldn't necessarily know that the Clos des Goisses is the product of such a hot and dry growing season. I say this because the strikingly layered nose is exuberantly fresh with its notes of green apple, quinine, just sliced citrus, petrol, spice and floral nuances, all liberally laced with yeasty wisps. There is fine volume and impressive density to the intense but rich and expansive flavors that are supported by a wonderfully fine-bead mousse on the clean, complex and classy finish that, at present anyway, seems a bit drier than the stated dosage would suggest. Even so, this is not austere and the balance is impeccable. A potentially great Clos des Goisses and one that could already be approached even though I would suggest holding off until 2030 before digging in with any seriousness and 2032 would likely be better still. One of the best 'lux' 2015s that I've tried to this point.
Critic scores
Average Score
Sarah Mayo, The Wine Independent
Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
This has a complex nose of brioche, honey, baked pears, salted plums, walnuts and white chocolate. It’s superbly fine and silky on the palate, with very soft bubbles and bright acidity underpinning the mellow fruit, honey and saline nuances. Dry and elegant, with wonderful freshness from a warm vintage. 78% pinot noir and 22% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2024. 4.5g/L dosage. Drink or hold.
Made from 78% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, the 2015 Champagne Clos Des Goisses Extra Brut is one of the first wines of the cuvée that was 100% barrel fermented, and it also underwent complete malo fermentation, as always. A medium straw/golden color, it’s expressive in the glass with ripe, savory notes of black cherries, sous bois, delicate toast spice, umami savory notes, and yeasty fresh baked bread. Full-bodied, it fills the palate with a very long and sapid mid-palate richness, revealing accented notes of grapefruit on the finish. It’s long lasting and has a kiss of warmth, which is to be expected in this vintage, although it remains very much in balance, with a noble feel. An exceptional wine from 2015, the team at Philipponnat knocked these 2015s out of the park. This and their other 2015s are likely going to develop into great examples of how wines with powerful, rich structures in warm vintages can age without relying solely on acidity to carry the torch. Drink 2027-2047. 18,000 bottles produced. Disgorged in March 2024 and not yet released.
Surpassing the 2010, the 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is gorgeous, evoking aromas of pear, mirabelle, spices, honey, brioche and perfectly ripe orchard fruits intertwined with delicate notes of iodine. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and dense with remarkable depth at the core combined with racy acids and a structured, perfectly balanced mid-palate. Slightly austere at this stage, it finishes long and sappy with a licorice-inflected aftertaste. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Readers eager to experience this superb Champagne at its peak should be patient.
About the producer
Champagne Philipponnat, an historic family estate that has been cultivating the region for an extraordinary 500 years, has been producing Champagne on the Clos des Goisses site since 1935. Charles Philipponnat is currently at the helm of the Champagne House.