2020 Barolo Monvigliero

First produced in 2018, the 2020 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole cluster fermentation, which contributes to a bit of spice that comes through in the wine. Offering notes of saline, cinnamon, cranberries, white pepper, and orange peel, it’s lean and weightless on the palate, an elegant and graceful red with supple, fine tannins and a clean mouthfeel. Highly refined, this very pretty wine is going to improve over the next 7-10 years. Drink 2025-2035. Vietti was founded by Carlo Vietti in the late 1800s and is based in Castiglione Falletto. After marrying Luciana Vietti in the late 1950s, Alfredo Currado joined the operations of the winery and later was largely regarded as responsible for the resurrection of the Arneis grape. Until last year, the estate had been helmed by fifth-generation winemaker Luca Currado Vietti and his wife Elena, who have been the longtime champions of their family’s winery. In 2016, the estate was purchased by Krause Holdings, which had enabled Luca and Elena to continue their roles while simultaneously supporting significant growth, gaining sought-after site acquisitions for production such as Monvigliero in Barolo. Eugenio Palumbo, who has a long tenure with the winery in all operations, has assumed control as the winemaker of the estate today. Though the winery is in solid control in terms of the winemaking, the recent departure of Luca and Elena is certain to leave a spiritual hole impossible to fill any time soon.

A relatively new departure for Vietti, the 2020 Barolo Monvigliero is soft and delicate with pretty floral aromas, dried iris, powdered spice and a hint of tar or road pavement. The inaugural vintage was 2018. Made with 60% whole-cluster fruit during fermentation, the wine has a moment of tartness, punchy highlights, sweet grenadine and cranberry jelly. It ages in large oak casks for 24 months. Production is 6,754 bottles.

One of the palest and most perfumed Barolos from Vietti with a transparent, ruby-orange hue. This is a super nuanced, elegant, expressive and ethereal Monvigliero that grows on me, with enchanting notes of grilled grapefruit, thyme, frozen raspberries and mineral. A subtle splash of white pepper and mezcal-like smokiness. Really refined and transparent, with some citrus and mineral tensions that are closely knit with the fine, crumbled tannins. So much finesse and detail here, and its complexity will continue to unwind. Really composed, soulful and mind-blowing! A big wow that deserves attention. Vegan. Best with a Burgundy glass. Can drink now or from 2027.