2020 Barolo Lazzarito

From Serralunga, the 2020 Barolo Lazzarito displays more sapidity on opening, with aromas of fresh sage, balsamic herbs, preserved strawberries, and tea leaf. Medium-bodied, it is more structured, with broad shoulders, ripe tannins, and a more grounding sensibility without being heavy. It shows more savory richness, although is light on its feet. Drink 2026-2046. Vietti was founded by Carlo Vietti in the late 1800s and is based in Castiglione Falletto. After marrying Luciana Vietti in the late 1950s, Alfredo Currado joined the operations of the winery and later was largely regarded as responsible for the resurrection of the Arneis grape. Until last year, the estate had been helmed by fifth-generation winemaker Luca Currado Vietti and his wife Elena, who have been the longtime champions of their family’s winery. In 2016, the estate was purchased by Krause Holdings, which had enabled Luca and Elena to continue their roles while simultaneously supporting significant growth, gaining sought-after site acquisitions for production such as Monvigliero in Barolo. Eugenio Palumbo, who has a long tenure with the winery in all operations, has assumed control as the winemaker of the estate today. Though the winery is in solid control in terms of the winemaking, the recent departure of Luca and Elena is certain to leave a spiritual hole impossible to fill any time soon.

Lazzarito stands out as one of the strongest wines in this portfolio of new releases from Vietti. With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the 2020 Barolo Lazzarito comes in at a very high threshold in terms of complexity, offering dark cherry, crème de cassis, violet macaron, dried herb and lavender. The wine's perfumes remind me of the south of France in summer. It shows elegant tannins, streamlined intensity and good acidity. Production is 10,626 bottles.

There is a little more savoriness here, showing contained power. Tar and dark minerality. Plenty of forest berries, dried orange peel, frozen grapefruit and raspberries. Very structured and full-bodied, with firm, chewy tannins rendering the bold austere quality to the wine. But at the end, this is focused and taut, with a crunchy, spicy finish full of length. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Drinkable now if you are willing to embrace austerity, but this should be better from 2027.