2019 Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd

The 2019 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M is from Lucas Pichler's top Veltliner sites (alone, the Loibenberg makes 50% of the assemblage, but there is also fruit from the Kollmütz and the Mühlpoint), predominantly vinified in oak, but with a monthly bâtonnage to manage the higher alcohol. It has an intense citrus color and opens with a deep, intense and fresh, finely mineral and lemony, refreshingly flinty bouquet with just a very attractive hint of toast and oak. Fine and juicy on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, intense, dry and elegant M with a lovely roundness but also mineral tension and this fascinating crystalline acidity that lifts the candied pineapple aromas and the alcohol on the aftertaste. This is a generous but elegant M that has the body and texture of a Rhône wine but the sharp and crystalline acidity of the Wachau. A great wine to enjoy over many years. 14.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.