2021 TImorasso Derthona Colli Tortonese

The 2021 Timorasso Derthona is part of a more recent project for the team at Vietti which they began in 2017. With this vintage, they’ve been able to increase the percentage of estate fruit in it to about 80%. Raised in equal parts stainless steel tanks, neutral barrels, and ceramic, the wine is a pale straw color and offers resinous aromas of ripe peach, cherry blossoms, crushed herbs, and wet stone. A textural and medium-bodied white, with good viscosity as well as saline and mineral undercurrents, it shows some real aging potential for those who have the patience to stash it away. Drink over the next 8-10 years, but if opening young, decanting is recommended. Vietti was founded by Carlo Vietti in the late 1800s and is based in Castiglione Falletto. After marrying Luciana Vietti in the late 1950s, Alfredo Currado joined the operations of the winery and later was largely regarded as responsible for the resurrection of the Arneis grape. Until last year, the estate had been helmed by fifth-generation winemaker Luca Currado Vietti and his wife Elena, who have been the longtime champions of their family’s winery. In 2016, the estate was purchased by Krause Holdings, which had enabled Luca and Elena to continue their roles while simultaneously supporting significant growth, gaining sought-after site acquisitions for production such as Monvigliero in Barolo. Eugenio Palumbo, who has a long tenure with the winery in all operations, has assumed control as the winemaker of the estate today. Though the winery is in solid control in terms of the winemaking, the recent departure of Luca and Elena is certain to leave a spiritual hole impossible to fill any time soon.

The Vietti 2021 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona shows a brilliant appearance, density and crunchy fruit. Still quite neutral aromatically at this young stage, you can expect a slow and beautiful evolution to come. The quality of the fruit is precise and clean. I am reminded of a ripe pear closed with wax. There is a spicy note with white pepper and a hint of kerosene. A tart hint of citric acid needs to iron out, but it gives the wine the ability to age. Some 20,000 bottles were made. Vietti has access to Nebbiolo from 10 MGA sites to make the various wines in its ample portfolio. We also have a new wine to celebrate—the 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà—that knocks it out of the ballpark with its inaugural release.

Vietti's 2021 Timorasso is gorgeous. The first vintages here were decidedly rustic, but the 2021 shows an added level of textural finesse that is especially apparent in its contours. Hints of lemon peel, white flowers, mint and chamomile all grace this layered, super expressive white. The 2021 was fermented mostly in ceramic and steel, with just one lot done in wood. I have never been the biggest fan of the Vietti Timorasso, but the 2021 might make me change my mind. It's a gorgeous wine in every way.