2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme

Deep red. Vivid red berry and cherry liqueur aromas complemented by baking spices and white pepper. The supple, gently sweet palate offers deeper dark berry flavors. The peppery note repeats on the finish, which leaves behind sappy raspberry and blueberry notes. The lively fruit here is more straightforward that that of the La Crau.

Vieux Telegraphe’s second wine, from what they call “young” vines (under 30 years of age), is called Telegramme. The label is one of the more intriguing, provocative wine labels in the world; I will say no more. Like the 2007, the Provencal-styled 2006 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape is 100% Grenache from 25-30 year old vines. It reveals more spice, earth, garrigue, lavender, and pepper. Consume it over the next 7-8 years. This venerable estate, long run by the Brunier family, is a consistent source for fabulous wines. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Sweet fresh red cherries. And plum and spice. Very ripe on the nose but seems less so on the palate. Dry and much more savoury on the palate than the nose suggested. Firm, chewy but rounded.  (JH)